There are few moments in a wine professional’s life that feel genuinely electric, and sitting down one-on-one with Sébastien Le Golvet in Hong Kong was undeniably one of them. For years I have been privileged to share Henri Giraud with collectors across the city – its depth, its texture, that unmistakable whisper of ancient Argonne oak always leaving a lasting imprint on the palate and in conversation. I had read his story many times, but nothing compares to hearing it directly, face to face: the vision, the deliberate choices, the quiet rebellion against uniformity, and above all, the philosophy that “the best wines in the region are the wines of tomorrow, not the wines of today.” Sébastien does not simply make Champagne; he crafts wines that transcend time, anticipating how they will evolve so that, years or decades from now, they will speak perfectly to the palates of those who open them. It is a forward-looking approach wrapped in ancestral wisdom, and it is what makes Henri Giraud so profoundly special. 

The Interview 

Mariana: Sébastien, welcome to Hong Kong! We’ve been sharing Henri Giraud with our collectors here for years—with its depth, texture, and that signature whisper of Argonne oak, it always leaves a lasting impression. Today we’re thrilled to go beyond the glass and hear from you: not just how you make Champagne, but why you make it the way you do. 

Sébastien: First of all, to make a great Champagne you have to make a great wine, and that great wine comes from a great terroir – like Aÿ. But when you have a great wine from Aÿ, you also need a beautiful setting. That setting is the Argonne forest, where I select the trees to craft our barrels. For me it’s fundamental to go into the forest, choose the trees myself, and create this exceptional wine that we are lucky enough to share with you here in Hong Kong. At the same time, a great wine is something that makes us travel together and loosens tongues—that, to me, is what matters most. 

Mariana: In a region where tradition often means playing it safe, you’ve chosen a different path- wild fermentations, ancient oak, wines with soul over sameness. What’s the one thing you wish more people understood about the spirit behind Henri Giraud? And what does that 200-year-old Argonne oak give your wines that stainless steel or younger barrels never could? 

Sébastien: Working with oaks over 200 years old is central to who we are. When we harvest one of those trees in the Argonne forest, we pay homage to it; we study the exact “station” – the micro-ecosystem – in which it grew. A 200-year-old oak is still a living thing, just as wine is a living thing. Using small barrels from Argonne allows us to work differently than with large stainless-steel tanks. It is also part of history: before the 1950s there were more than 150 coopers in the Argonne forest. We are driven by that same artisanal vision of luxury. 

Mariana: Your wines have a bold, almost wild energy, rich texture, oxidative nuance, real depth. Is that intentional? Do you ever worry it might surprise traditional Champagne drinkers? 

Sébastien: Yes, our wines are full of energy – we call it “energy inside.” For us the star is not the bubbles; the star is the wine itself! A great wine that makes you vibrate and translates the terroir of Aÿ Grand Cru, now UNESCO-listed, with its minerality and richness. A few gentle oxidative notes are natural when you mature in oak, and yes, that can be surprising because we don’t make Champagne the way everyone else does. We seek richness and depth; the bubbles are only there to accompany the wine. When you taste Henri Giraud for the first time, it’s the wine that fills the mouth and an extraordinary nose that strikes you. That difference, that differentiation, is exactly what I’m looking for. 

Mariana: For collectors in Hong Kong choosing between Fût de Chêne PR and MV – both non-vintage and similarly priced, how would you guide them? What should they expect, and who is each wine “for”? 

Sébastien: These two cuvées are completely different worlds. PR is a contraction of space-time (you see it in the bottle design inspired by a collapsing star). It is made exclusively from two perpetual reserves: Esprit Nature and the  reserve. Here the elders educate the young, and the young refresh the elders. The result is a wine that remains fresh and vibrant yet gains complexity with age. In three words: richness, freshness, energy. MV, on the other hand, is made only from Aÿ Grand Cru grapes and still contains one-third perpetual reserve. It is a touch richer, rounder, with notes of apricot and cooked fruit, perfect with a fine piece of meat or a cigar. I have three sons – each wonderful, each completely different, and I love them equally. It’s the same with these wines. Taste both, and you will probably love each for different moments, different dishes, different company. 

Mariana: Looking ahead, how do you see Champagne drinking evolving in Asia, especially in cities like Hong Kong? Do you adapt your approach to new expectations, or do you stay firmly rooted in your vision? 

Sébastien: The world is in constant motion; expectations change, and we cannot remain static. I have an artistic, creative vision of wine, so we adapt to tomorrow’s audience – especially on environmental questions and alcohol levels – while never abandoning our roots. I always say the best Henri Giraud wines are the wines of tomorrow, not today, because tomorrow we will have progressed further. It’s like a mountaineer opening a new route: always further, always higher. The public should not have to adapt to our wine; we must evolve with our public. 

Mariana: If you had to describe Henri Giraud in just three words – and yourself as a winemaker in three words, what would they be? 

Sébastien: For me as a winemaker: Passion, Tenacity, Patience. Passion – because without it you get bored. Tenacity – because you must rework and rework your craft endlessly. Patience – because when we release Cuvée Argonne, for example, that wine has lived through a full year in the vineyard, another year of vinification, then seven or eight years on lees. It is truly a profession of patience and tenacity. Thank you for your questions and your curiosity – without passionate, curious people like you, there would be no Henri Giraud Champagne. 

Closing Thoughts 

After translating and relieving every word of this conversation, my admiration for Sébastien Le Golvet has only deepened. It is not merely talent or creativity that sets him apart; it is a rare combination of forward-thinking vision with profound respect for ancestral methods, modern precision applied to revive almost-forgotten traditions, and an unrelenting drive to make every vintage better than the last. 

His patience, tenacity, and passion infuse every bottle, giving Henri Giraud its unmistakable character—wines that feel alive, that demand attention, that improve in the glass and in memory. 

It was also a true honour to meet Anne Le Golvet-Giraud, Sébastien’s wife, who joined us that day. Beyond the world of Champagne, Anne is deeply passionate about anti-aging medicine, skincare, and holistic wellness, and I was fortunate to spend some time chatting with her about these inspiring initiatives that beautifully complement the family’s philosophy of longevity, care, and living well. 

As someone who has been an entrepreneur in the wine industry for seventeen years, Sébastien’s mountaineer spirit resonates deeply: the willingness to open new paths, to climb higher, to never settle. Encounters like this remind me why I fell in love with this world in the first place – and why I will keep climbing, too. 

Thank you, Sébastien, and thank you, Henri Giraud, for continually raising the bar. The best, as you say, is still to come. 

Stay tuned for the upcoming full video interview with Sébastien coming very soon on Wineworld Xplorer channels.

Interview by: Mariana Lam
Date: 31st October, 2025, Hong Kong
Interviewee: Sébastien Le Golvet, Cellar Master of Maison Henri Giraud
With special thanks to: Dr. Anne Le Golvet-Giraud